Recap of the last weeks

Where to start…
During the last few weeks I’ve been competing a lot while trying to figure out how I would manage to do all my school works… Finally, I just finished everything and I’m now packing up for Hueco Tanks! Can’t be more psyched!!

January 2013
Holidays went by quickly, I ate way too much turkey and I was ready for a new year!

Taining Camp
I was lucky enough to be invited to a training camp with members of the USA team on January 15th-16th. The camp was held by Earth Trek Climbing gym in Rockville, MD and organized by world cups routesetters: Tonde Katiyo and Chris Danielson. I took a week off of school and drove 10 hours to get there and I don’t regret it! I went to the camp with Mélissa and we both were super happy of the experience.
The camp was on a two day period. We had every day two circuits to complete. The first one was always with only one try per problem and 2-3 minutes to read and send it without rest in between the boulders.
It was a great exercise to practice flashes as well as get in the mood of trying really hard each time. We all figured we weren’t warmed up on the first circuit, at least not enough to try that hard! There were then a lot of improvements to do on our warm up routine. Thing we did later by exchanging methods and focusing to be ready to try harder.
The second circuit was a five minute per problem. First day we did it with the world cup format and the other with the US nationals format. It was great to climb on problems of various styles and of world cups level.
One of the points that made the experience so valuable is to climb with such a strong group of climbers. It’s is so much motivating and keeps you pushing harder and harder.
At the end of the camp we did a team competition. 4-5 persons per team and we each had only 5 tries to do so we had to be super strategic about the problems we would do to not lose any points. Once again it motivated us to try hard because everyone was competitive and wanted to win. We had good time!

Big Thanks to Tonde and Chris that made it possible and Earth Trek for having the event!
Can’t wait for the next one!!

The awesome group photo :P

The awesome group photo😛

Dark Horse Championship
We drove back to Montreal and the day after I was returning to Boston for the Dark Horse Championship on January 19th.
It was a hard comp! They were taking only 6 climbers to finals with the 3 others that already had their place in finals by winning the previous comps (Vasya Vorotnikov, Jimmy Webb and Josh Levin). I knew it was going to be a rough qualifier. To name a few, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Rob d’Anastasio, Brian Kim, Micheal O’rourke and Carlo Traversi were all trying to qualify for finals.
I had to climb during the entire qualifier round and manage to send some good problems at the end of my comp. I later learned that I was the sixth going to finals!
Super happy, I was also super tired so it went not as good as I wish but I’m still glad I competed in those finals!
I finished 9th.
Click HERE for the full results.

Problem 2 - DH Champioshipsphoto: Natalia Boltukhova

Problem 2 – DH Champioships
photo: Natalia Boltukhova

Problem 1 - Finals DH ChampionshipsPhoto: Vince Shaefer

Problem 1 – Finals DH Championships
Photo: Vince Shaefer

Problem 4 - Finals DH CahmpionshipsPhoto: Micheal Lee

Problem 4 – Finals DH Championships
Photo: Micheal Lee

TDB Vertical
The week end after the Dark Horse was held another Tour de Bloc stop. Fortunately it was at my home gym, so not too far away! Josh Larson and Isabelle Faus from Boston came all the way down to try one of our Canadian comp. It is always cool to see new faces to compete with.
I think that Vertical’s team put up a lot of effort in this comp and it was for sure a good one of the Tour!
I had a good qualifier despite some errors here and there. I was 3rd going to finals. First and second were respectively Josh Larson and Ayo Sopeju.
I’m super happy for my girlfriend Stéphanie Bénard who was the 7th girl going to finals!!
She did super well and finished 5th.
My climbing went well in finals and I’ve been able to be in the ‘’zone’’ and focus for the entire round. With this mindset, I made no mistake and flashed every 5 problems! I knew I had to not make any with Josh and Ayo sending everything just after me.
I finished 1st.
Mélissa was first in qualifier but slipped on a foot hold and dropped to the 2nd place with Isabelle in 1st.
Click HERE for the full results.

Vertical team's finalist

Vertical team’s finalist

I’m now taking a small break of comps in Hueco Tanks, can’t wait to try my new MEC stuff that I just received! More news to come on my outdoor projects!
S.

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