Daily Dose of Beans – Hueco2013

LandscapePhoto: Sébastien Lazure

Photo: Sébastien Lazure

The trip is already over and I can’t wait to go back!
I had a great time in Hueco this year! We had good weather and I was feeling stronger than last time I entered the park 3 years ago. My original plan was to work Esperanza. I knew I was able to do it, but unfortunately I didn’t send on this trip. I’ve been able to do every move quickly and did it in pretty much two parts. The only thing is that I didn’t figure out the way to master the move to the bone hold well enough to make it work on the send. After a while working it I shift my focus and started trying more things than just one project. It worked pretty well as I sent lots of boulders on the second half of my trip.

Working the project.. EsperanzaPhoto: Stéphanie Bénard

Working the project.. Esperanza
Photo: Stéphanie Bénard

One of my best send of the trip was Slashface V13, an old project from last time I was in Hueco. I was feeling way better this year and managed to stick the crux every time and send it very quickly! I sent on my first go of the second session. My fingers were so cold I thought I would fall every second on the top out!

SlashfacePhoto: Stéphanie Bénard

Photo: Stéphanie Bénard

I did other very good problems, my favourites are: Shaken not stirred V12 that I was surprised to complete quickly because it’s such an endurance test piece! It’s for sure one of the best roof climb! ; Ghost Limb V12 which is a new problem I guess, with amazing moves on an overhanging prow and a body tension finish on slopers ; El Chupacabra V11 ; Focus V10 and Bloodline V7 which is one of the nicest wall out there! It has 3-4 delicate moves on slopy sidepull to join a tufa. I really suggest this one!

To see the other problems I did in Hueco click HERE!

Paul on Ghost Limb @ the Rock RodeoPhoto: Sébastien Lazure

Paul on Ghost Limb @ the Rock Rodeo
Photo: Sébastien Lazure

We were there for the Hueco Rock Rodeo, but decided not to compete because we had only few days left to our trip and didn’t want to be wrecked for the rest of it. We had the chance to follow Paul Robinson and Jimmy Webb during the comp. Paul had an amazing day of 86 points and won the comp. It was cool to watch and made us discover new boulders that we hadn’t seen yet. It’s how I found out about Ghost Limb.

Rest days

We had amazing rest days! So here are some suggestions if you’re thinking of going climbing there.

-White Sands National Monument, New Mexico (about 2h from the park)

It’s the biggest gypsum desert in the world! You are surrounded by dunes of white sands. The scenery is amazing for pictures and you also have the option to rent something to slide down the dunes. It’s pretty cool!

White Sands National Monument, New MexicoPhoto: Sébastien Lazure

White Sands National Monument, New Mexico
Photo: Sébastien Lazure

-Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico (about 2h from the park).

Enormous Caverns with thousands of stalactites and stalagmites everywhere! It totally worth it! It is so big that it took us about 2h to walk through and it takes you down to 250 meters! Very impressive!

Carlsbad Caverns, NMPhoto: Sébastien Lazure

Carlsbad Caverns, NM
Photo: Sébastien Lazure

-Rob and Guns Shooting Range, El Paso.

We rented a shot gun for 10$, bought some ammo and was ready to shoot! It was great experience and we had plenty of fun! We even ended the day with a good beer at the bar with the other cowboys of the place!

Trying to look badass with the shotgun :PPhoto: Simon Généreux Vien

Trying to look badass with the shotgun 😛
Photo: Simon Généreux Vien

It’s pretty much it!

I’m very happy of my trip and very motivated for the next one! Now I have to focus on the comps coming up! I’ll try to put together a small video with the footage I have, hopefully soon!




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