Euro13: Magic Wood, CH

After Munich, Innsbruck and some tourist attractions, we were crossing the swiss borders in our awesome BMW rental!

Bellinzona Castle for a good rest day,

Switzerland is more than lots of chocolate; it’s also lots of rock, mountains and amazing scenery. Our destination was the infamous Magic Wood, one of many climbing areas this country has to offer. This place reminds me a lot of Squamish. The rock is pretty much the same with a bit more holds and the surrounding is very similar. We had only 8 days of climbing in total. We did 2 days on with a day off twice and finished with a strong 4 days straight.

Arriving in Magic Wood I had one line in mind that I wanted to project, I had seen it in videos and pictures, it’s a very proud line and I really wanted to try it. It was New Base Line, a very good 8B+. I tried it 2 good sessions and figured out some practically every move except 1 or 2. It felt possible but as the time of my trip was counting down I had to change my focus on project I could do faster.

Working New Base Line
Photo Stéphanie Bénard

I was travelling with my girlfriend Stephanie and our friend Marieta but we were meeting up with some of the Canadian team including Thomasina and Cedar. Cedar being now a very impressive climber for her age!  Like every trip we met new friends from everywhere and had lots of fun hanging out with them.

Marieta working Grit de Luxe

Marieta working Grit de Luxe

I climbed well every day despite an injured hamstring from a heel hook the second day.  I managed to tick lots of the good climb of the area.  If you ever want to go there here is some climbs that I really liked : ”Du Côté de Seshuan” which is a very good and long by the river ending with a super cool dyno 7C+; Fight Club, really cool 7C; Both ”Hands of Darkness”  8A and 8A+ in a total roof; the highball ”Blown Away” 7B; ”Freiwild” 6C; ”Morgenlatte” 7A+; ”Grit de Luxe” 7A+ with a mantle start, also right by the river; ”Jack’s Broken Heart” 8A+; ”Schnee Sturm” 8A and many more since they where all good :).

Photo Stéphanie Bénard

Left hand of Darness
Photo Stéphanie Bénard

Riverbed Photo Stéphanie Bénard

Photo Stéphanie Bénard

At the end of the trip I discovered Riverbed, a very cool 8B boulder with gymnastic moves in a roof seating on the side of the river. I started working it and quickly did all the moves. I could have sent on the first day. I fell after the crux, but starting to be tired I decided to come back the next day. I sent it the next day, but with a bit more difficulty than I thought I would after that good first session on it. I was very happy since the end of the trip was coming. Steph climbed really well too, she made quick work of lots of boulders in her range.

72B. 6B+

72B. 6B+

We had an amazing trip in Europe and it will definitely not be the last one! We’re now back at work. Slowly recovering from the trip and working with in mind the next time we’ll be taking the plane! The comp season is going to start soon, so I better stop writing and go training with all that fresh motivation! I’ll probably post a video as soon as I can!

Night shot in Ausserferrera

Night shot in Ausserferrera


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